As I said, this blog will not be just about running in the Tararuas, so here's a report from a trip Nic and I did in Dec-10 / Jan-11 with awesome friends, Nick and Missy (Lt Cdr, RNZN no less) Smith.
We spent seven days together traversing from Lewis Pass to St Arnaud, following the Ada, Matakitaki (west and east), D'Urville and Sabine valleys, and in the process crossing Three Tarns Pass, David Saddle and Moss Pass.
Day 1 – The Ada Valley
After being ‘holed up’ at the Lewis Pass motel for an extra day due to severe rain and flooding we left the Lewis Pass carpark on the morning of 29-12-10, heading up the Ada Valley; part of the St James Walkway, for Ada Pass Hut and places beyond.
There are worse places you could spend a day than Lewis Pass Motel, a little four unit set-up on a deer farm a few minutes east of Maruia Springs. That said, cabin fever sets in quickly and we’d all four spent too much time indoors over the preceding year and were chomping at the bit to stretch the legs. On the topic of legs Mr Smith and I had laid the ground rules with the girls; just because we were going bush we didn’t expect the girls hirstute. Champagne tramping Nick calls it.
The Maruia River, a tributary of the Buller, flows in a southerly direction down the Ada Valley, with Ada Pass at the head of the valley at 1,008m, a climb of only around 150m from the road-end. The Spencer Mountains climb to over 1,700m to the east, and to the west the Freyberg Range is a similar height. These two ranges feed the mid sized Maruia. Ada Pass Hut is not reached without passing through the infamous Cannibal Gorge. The name installed fear in us peace-loving city folk with thoughts of Deliverance surfacing. However it wasn’t until we got to the Cannibal Gorge Hut that we realised the cannibalisation was to be at the hands teeth of the local sandflies. So much for needing the murderous skills of our Royal New Zealand Navy Lieutenant Commander! Missy was clearly going to have to demonstrate another skill set to be of any value on this trip.
Cannibal Gorge Hut
The Ada valley is a typical U-shaped South Island valley with open beech forest leading to the tops. Cannibal Gorge Hut is set in a lovely clearing a little over half way up the valley, with views to the north showing us where we hoped to be fly-camping by nightfall.The damp morning had subsided and the day was shaping up to be clear and hot, so a quick stop at this Cannibal Hut and we were off toward Ada Pass Hut for a lunch stop. The hut is only a few minutes beyond the turn-off we were to take, but worth it to view this cute little hut. Boots were dispatched, wet feet dried and salmon and cheese crackers soon readied; fare that was only to change with the inclusion of salami instead of salmon as the days wore on.
Ada Pass Hut
With shoulders and back fighting mind and soul I had to mediate and remind myself that there was no beer between Ada Valley and a convenience store at Lake Rotoiti. We’d studied the map and eaten our fill – no excuses remained. Back down the track and across the Maruai River we turned north to follow the stream to the bush line where we hoped to camp at around 1,250m. I’d been advised to head well above the stream in the lower reaches, cutting back across to the creek higher up, so dutifully this is the course we took, following sporadic cairns which gave some comfort to our route finding. It didn’t take to long to realise that this was in-fact the entirely wrong place to be (albeit frequented by many groups in the past if the cairns are any guide) as we bashed around steep hill-sides and through dense undergrowth all whilst looking down on a clear tussock stream edge! Not unusual for such circumstance Mr Smith looked very pleased with himself; nothing like testing the girls early he told me. The last laugh rests with me though when Lt Cdr blamed her husband for getting her into this predicament.
Enter Smith's Dream. A trip into the hills allows the indulgence to read something that is not related to my work, and the title “Smith's Dream” couldn’t have been more fitting given the company we were keeping.
Smith's Dream recounts the story of reclusive Smith who goes off to live a peaceful life in the Coromandel when his wife leaves him, only to find himself New Zealand’s most wanted man as he fights a political coup led by the dictator Volkner. Volkner is supported by the Special X, a special police unit, and the military. New Zealand is in chaos.
In any case, by night two of our trip Smith's Dream was to become the team book and some time each evening was spent reading aloud a chapter or two of this entertaining book. The longer we were away from civilisation, and the further into the story we got the more feasible it all seemed. A great way to spend time together with friends! Day 2 – To The West Matakitaki An early start had us climbing toward the scree slopes that led to Three Tarns Pass whilst the day was still cool.
Once the majority of the scree is behind us we skirt to the north-west around two sapphire tarns at 1,700m before climbing the final leg to Three Tarns Pass at 1,860m.
By mid morning we’re enjoying a leisurely hot cuppa at the three tarns that feed the top of the West Matakitaki – thanks to Mr Smith.
From the pass we’d followed a familiar face down to the tarns; renowned mountain guide John Entwistle, travelling at a very fast pace with his wife. At the tarns I got to say hello, and remind John of a meeting years ago at Kelman Hut on the Tasman Glacier.
From the tarns we spend some time taking bearings on Gloriana Peak, and of Faerie Queen beyond, both peaks that are on the bucket list. The day was turning into another scorcher and before long we’re picking our way down valley toward a camp site at Bob’s Hut. The West Matakitaki is an open tussock valley that heads north-west for its first 3 km’s, dropping about 500m over that distance. We picked our way easily along the upper reaches of the river, crossing whenever needed.
We enjoyed a long lunch stop in the tussock before climbing though an area of old glacial moraine and picking our way down through scrub, and back onto a formed track that leads about 4km to Bobs Hut.
Bobs Hut is a standard 8 bunk hut built many years ago to shelter government deer cullers. As it was in the shade and occupied we pitched the fly down toward the river where we all convinced ourselves a swim and wash was in order. Well it may be summer, but wow that river was cold! The cold was fixed a little later in the evening when I pulled from the bottom of my pack a hip flask of port that I’d been hiding for new years eve – oh well a day early but we were all pretty buggered and in need of a ’pick-me-up!
Day 3 – A Long Day On The Matakitaki
Today’s goal; a fly camp on the bush edge below David Saddle.
Another near cloudless day – the weather gods were smiling on us as we headed north-east toward the confluence with the East Branch of the Matakitaki River. From the confluence the Matakitaki really gains some size and power as it heads north toward Murchison and one of New Zealand’s key white water kayak playgrounds – a place Nick and I have both spent some time at, playing in our plastic boats.
A crossing of the (main) Matakitaki is required at the confluence and I was surprised to see DoC has a three-wire bridge here. I thought these had been long since been upgraded to the now typical swing bridge. This was much more fun!
From the confluence we continued on our north-east path through this beautiful beech covered valley for possibly another 4km to East Matakitaki Hut for yet another lunch of crackers, cheese and salami.
East Matakitaki Hut is located on a clearing on the left bank of the river of the same name – another awesome location with views north-east to David Saddle.
The hut’s at 900m so we were thinking the afternoon wander up valley to around 1,200m should have been an easy one. Just beyond the hut the track veers east for those wanting to climb in the Spencer Mountains. Our plan was to follow the Matakitaki River north to David Saddle. Whilst we were aware of an old cullers' track along the true right of the river, which we did follow for some time, the going was much quicker and easier in the river bed itself. The walk from East Matakitaki Hut to the bush line is only around 5km to 6km however this was a long afternoon. We were all suffering from a lack of tramping fitness and had bodies more accustomed to sitting at desks and sipping on lattes than lugging heavy packs through this terrain (except for Lt Cdr of course. Lt Cdr's don't sit at desks, and they certainly do not drink lattes!).
At near the bush edge the girls took a rest while Nick and I went looking for a decent spot for the fly. We were getting picky by now, having had two idyllic camps already. We needed late afternoon sun, great mountain views, handy water, soft bedding and little or no wind. Within 20 minutes we had found our best camp site yet and were back with the girls shouldering packs for the last grunt of the day.
We had a good team rhythm going by now, pitching the fly, getting water and preparing dinner were all managed efficiently and in no time at all we were relaxing in the late afternoon sun on our down sleeping bags celebrating the last day of 2010.
Kicking myself at having pulled out the port a day early (which was also finished yesterday) I was stoked when Nick pulled from his pack a hip flask of whisky. Great minds eh. So the evening was spent reminiscing on 2010 and enjoying sips at the flask until that too was emptied. By the time I had finished sharing another few chapters of Smith's Dream I looked over to see both Smiths and Miss N fast asleep – oh well.
Day 4 – To D’Urville Hut
We had bigger plans this day than stopping at D’Urville however not all things go to plan.
The steep climb to David Saddle (1,786m) was over fairly easy tussock country, albeit with a steep finish. The saddle itself is a very definitive schist low point separating the Ella Range to the north from the Spencer Mountains to the east.
From David Saddle we had to pick a route down to the headwaters of the D’Urville River, where at around 1,100m we would pick up a track on the true left that would get us quickly down to D’Urville Hut.
We stopped for a lunch of crackers, cheese and salami, just over the saddle on a house-sized rock with a view north down the D’Urville. As we hadn’t decided on our route for the next few days we studied the map and took a bearing on Moss Pass as our thoughts of a crossing to the Sabine Valley took on more appeal than a long trudge down the D’Urville. I always prefer being on the tops rather than in the bush – Nick and I just needed to convince our girls that a little stroll up to Moss Pass would be more fun than the alternative. After lunch we headed off down toward the river and I somehow managed to get us on a spur slightly to the east of the spur we should have been on. We could make out the first of the DoC orange tree markers marking the start of the track, however we were separated from this by a steep drop into a creek and a climb out the other side; how difficult could it be?
Well, a few tense moments and terse words, a bit of slipping and sliding, maybe the odd bum scratch and we were back on track. I had, by now lost all credibility as navigator although was chuffed at how Lt Cdr RNZN continued to blame Nick for these navigational hiccups. D’Urville Hut is a two bed bivvy, however with the weather looking unsettled and no camping site up to our demanding requirements it was going to do. We’d all agreed that a trip over into the Sabine was on the cards and we didn’t want to back-track the 2 km from Ella Hut the next day.
Our night at D’Urville was cosy, with the girls on the bunks and Nick and I getting to know each other a little better on the floor. So much for the subservient role of the wife, the chivalrous man lives on!
By day 4 my scrounging instincts were well tuned and I was excited to find an unopened packet of Mary Gray humbugs and tins of fish. Living like kings. Miss N had prepared and dehydrated dinners for each of our nights in the hills and they were proving to be great – much better than anything we could have bought. We were alternating pork, chicken, and lamb meals, each with a different array of vegies and rice or cous cous. Desserts were just as appetising and were prepared as soon as packs were off each evening.
Day 5
Waking to an overcast day we headed down valley to the swing bridge that would get us over the D’Urville and to the start of the climb of over 1,000m up to Moss Pass at 1,785m.
The higher we climbed the worse the weather got; our fist day of bad weather on the trip. Mid way up the ridge we met a lone girl, German I think, travelling on her own, and in sneakers. Mad or competent I’m not sure, but at least a reminder that we come across all sorts in the more popular parks.
Before the bush line a steep gut requires a hand-over-hand pull up a rope which made for a photo stop before we headed to the bush edge and out into the mist.
A cracker and a drink while we threw on better wet weather gear and we left the bush for Moss Pass. Mr Smith finally got a change to show off his new Swazi ‘high country musterer’ jacket, which the girls thought he looked ruggedly attractive in. He was so pleased with himself that he took his own photograph (Moss Pass over Nick’s right shoulder).
Over the pass we headed into a steep scree filled gut that for safety's sake we took two at a time; first Nic and I heading down, and then on my whistle Nick and Missy. This steep little gut took us 30 minutes to negotiate, and from there it was an easy stroll following the poled route down to Blue Lake Hut.
Nick and Missy just visible at the top
The weather had cleared well enough as we’d come down from the pass that Nick, Nic and I spent the late afternoon wandering up to have a look at Lake Constance. Lake Constance is around 2 km long and sits below Waiau Pass – a trip for another day. Nick and I headed down to Blue Lake on the way back to the hut while Nic headed back along the track. While walking back from the lake Nick and I had the pleasure of stumbling across a pretty kiwi girl taking a pee (not that I suppose Kiwi girls pee any differently than foreign girls, she was just pretty). A quick and friendly ‘hello’ and we moved on toward the hut. This girl seemed to take it all in her stride as when she came up to say hi later in the evening she reminded us that we’d met earlier in the day. After five days with just the four of us it was a shock to be in a near full hut and having to accustom again to the noise of people and cookers. Watching an older woman perform something akin to bad yoga moves in undies that looked like they’d been worn for three days straight a little later that evening, I yearned for a tussock basin, my little green fly and solitude.
Day 6 – Down the Sabine
The walk down the Sabine was urban in comparison to our prior five days. Board-walks and well kept tracks run along side the Sabine River which drops steeply in parts. We wondered what, if any, sections had been paddled.
About 6 km down the valley we crossed the river and popped back upstream for five minutes to take a look at the West Sabine Hut. We didn’t stop long here, but I was amused to meet a woman who had come into the valley for a number of weeks for her summer holiday and was basing herself at this hut – one of the least appealing in terms of location that we’d seen yet.
Back across the river and we made good time over the next 12km to 13 km to Sabine Hut, crossing the river, this time without the use of a bridge. A day spent in the bush wasn’t near as much fun as the passes, saddles and tussock of our earlier days.
Sabine Hut is a large DoC hut at the head of Lake Rotoroa and is accessible by boat; both private and a regular ferries which drops trampers and fishermen off for their pursuits. As such it’s a large hut and lacks the appeal of older back-country huts.
Lake Rotoroa must only be 10 km (as the crow flies) from lake Rotoiti, however is much warmer than the cold Rotoiti that I’ve swam in before. So we all enjoyed a long swim off the jetty in front of the hut; the girls only hopping out when one of them saw an eel swimming nearby. Lake Rotoroa is known to be home to New Zealand’s oldest and largest eels although I’m unaware of any swimmer ever losing a life at the jaws of an eel.
From here cell phones worked again, and with the ferry arriving late in the afternoon we knew our time in the back-country was ending.
Day 7 – Speargrass track, beers and bathing
We had extended our trip a little by deciding to walk around the Speargrass Track, a relatively short and easy track that ends near Lake Rotoiti.
Speargrass Hut is around 8 km along the track and is in a lovely spot for lunch so we spent some time here relaxing in the sun, contemplating the end of a great trip, and what else our summer holidays had in store.
From this hut it was an easy 5 km stroll, sidling through the bush along Speargrass Creek to the road end and our transport. As we neared the road end I wondered what we might find; our driver and my truck, or maybe the Special X. We’d made it out by mid afternoon and were soon at the St Arnaud store, each buying what we'd been craving for seven days; beer, chips and icecream.
Another trip sadly finished. Great friends, great weather, and an awesome piece of New Zealand back country that I hadn’t spent time in before.
The actors were:
Nic
Nick
Missy (Lt Cdr, RNZN)
And me, Andrew
Thanks to Nick and Missy for many of the photos in this posting, and for the pleasure of their company on this great adventure.
